THROUGH HERTFORDSHIRE ON THE RIVERS LEA AND STORT. 160 Miles by Motor Boat from Chertsey to Bishop's Stortford and back through Middlesex, Essex and Hertfordshire.

OUR launch being in commission for the season, we directed our course to the Rivers Lea and Stort.

Under fine weather conditions, all being found to be well aboard the good ship, we made a mid-day start on our tour from Chertsey, making a run of some 12 miles down stream to Kingston-on-Thames.

Just below Hampton Court Bridge we met the procession of the British Motor Boat Club, who were holding their annual meet at Kingston, and being members of this august body, we hoisted the club's burgee, starboarded our helm and followed in the wake of the boats - a goodly number there were, under the command of the Commodore, Admiral Sir William Kennedy.

Stopping the night, we next morning proceeded on our way down to below London Bridge, some 21½ miles down stream, where we were to break our journey, and this destination we duly reached during the afternoon, everything going well, the engines acting splendidly, and the tide suiting admirably.

We have already described this route, and the only incident on our way was when, approaching London Bridge, the tide being three-quarters ebb and running fast, we observed broken water ahead. On reaching the broken water and at the speed we were going, we dived into what one of our passengers jocularly described as a tidal wave. We found we had shipped nearly a foot of water in our hold, and those sitting forward in the boat got completely drenched. On enquiry, we found there was a drop of some feet, and the swell is attributed, so we are told, to some remains of Old London Bridge still being there.

We hove to our craft at Billingsgate, got our bilges cleared, and then proceeded to our destination for the night.

On our third day, in charming weather, we continued our course down stream, leaving our halting place just below the Tower of London about 10.30 a.m. bound for Bow Creek-six miles distant - which leads to the River Lea some three miles farther on.

We took advantage of the last of the ebb tide, and by so doing reached the entrance referred to at dead low water, at the same time getting the quiet of the river at that time. We thus avoided the steamer and barge traffic. The only wash we had was from the L.C.C. steamers; however, our little cruiser behaved well on her deep water course. This was the lowest point on the Thames we had touched in our craft, which is hardly of the sea-going type, having navigated in all on this river, from Lechlade to Bow Creek, some 150 miles on previous occasions.

To motor up Bow Creek we had to wait for about an hour for the flood tide, as the entrance is rather silted up; so we moored at the Trinity House steamers' buoy.

Bow Creek is a busy commercial waterside centre, and is fully occupied on its banks with various industries, wharves, and railway companies' depots. Close to the entrance the Thames Ironworks and Shipbuilding Co. then had their large works, and although at low water the place does not in any way impress one, yet some of the largest battleships built have been launched from here.

The first lock we encounter is Bow, some three miles from the Thames and half-way up the creek, where the jurisdiction of the Thames Conservancy ends and that of the River Lea Conservancy begins. There are several small navigable creeks at the Thames end of the river, but the Lea proper or main course extends 25 miles from Old Ford Lock to Hertford, with 19 locks between.

For many miles from the start there are the same commercial environments, which continue right up to Lea Bridge, when the rural aspect and views become more and more interesting as progress is made.

The country all along is very flat and although the scenery never assumes anything of a striking character, still it is very pleasing indeed. We have had many experiences in all our wanderings, but, taking all places into account, generally speaking, the River Lea is well suited for motor boating. There is the wide river with continuous deep water right up to the finish. The waterway is well maintained; likewise the locks are carefully equipped and tended by a very obliging set of officials.

All along the upper reaches there are great facilities for river recreations, and there are numerous boat houses and even sailing clubs - Lea Bridge, Tottenham, Broxbourne, and Rye House being the chief resorts.

The motor boat, however, had not then reached these parts seriously. There were, however, a few about, we were led to understand; and our craft was one of the earliest that had passed on the through journey. The locks are numerous for the distance, running about every mile or so on an average, and this is, perhaps, the only drawback.

There is a striking similarity between the Medway and the River Lea so far as the ample supply of water is concerned, and likewise as to the surroundings in the upper reaches. There is also the barge traffic, which is chiefly carried on by horse towage.

We pass many towns en route, Ware (Herts) being one of the chief places. At this town there is a large malting business carried on, and the Lea comes in very useful for the conveyance of freights.

It seemed to me, being a believer in the advantages of waterside premises and corresponding cheap transit, that with all the agitation about canals, there was scope for manufactories along these river banks within such easy reach of London. The Great Eastern Railway, by the way, runs almost parallel the whole of the course, and no doubt is a formidable competitor, but, we have found, in many instances, that where there is a canal there will be found also a railway running alongside. In such cases one means of communication competes against the other.

Our original programme was to stop for the night at Field's Weir - the junction of the River Stort - some seven miles from Hertford; but as the engines were giving a good account of themselves, the locks, too, being nearly all open, and the night being fine, we decided to proceed to Hertford, which place we duly reached about 9 p.m.

Coming into the town itself and meandering about in the dark, we at one point thought we had landed somewhere about a Venetian canal, and here we finished our day's cruise.

Hertford, the county town, has a population of 9,300, and a fine old place it is. We put up at the Dimsdale Arms Hotel - an ancient hostelry, dating back to the 15th century - and our comforts were well attended to by the genial landlord of the "Good old Dim."

Our short stay was a pleasant one, and we re started next day on our journey with very pleasant recollections. Our usual good luck in the weather stood by us, and everything being satisfactory, we retraced our course to Field's Weir. The morning was fresh and spring-like, and the country was looking at its best.

On our way down, our curiosity led us to call at Rye House, a place reminiscent with old associations at every footstep. The Rye House Plot is enlarged upon, and the Big Bed of Ware (said to have once accommodated some 24 travellers who had lost their last coach) is to be seen here, and is looked upon in wonderment by the many excursionists who visit these parts. As a house of call one would really be surprised at the number who find their way here.

We now come to the River Stort - 14 miles long, already referred to. It is much narrower than the Lea, and does not assume the proportions of its neighbour in any way. It is very tortuous, and leads through many pleasing glimpses of scenery as one proceeds. Somehow or other, on this trip, from guide-books and from other references to both these rivers, we were not led to expect anything further than a very ordinary waterway, so that, like the proverb, "he that expecteth little shall not be disappointed." To our surprise, however, all through this journey the scenery was more pleasing, and with regard to the Stort itself, we were all delighted with the views that presented themselves, being of so distinctly rural a character that we all appreciated our new acquaintance with this river.

The charm of the Stort is its extreme quietude, and the general lie of the land gives one the impression of travelling over green fields, in itself a delightful experience.

This waterway seems to have had various owners in past times, and it was then the property of Sir Walter Gilbey. There are 15 locks in all, and although of a crude character, they are not difficult to negotiate.

After our efforts of the previous day, when we accomplished some 34 miles, we were glad to get the quiet, and took things more leisurely, enjoying nature to the full. Here again, as on all other waterways, one is out of the world, away beyond human ken, and life appears worth living amidst such congenial surroundings.

We pass such places as Roydon, Harlow, and Sawbridgeworth, all interesting spots, the end of our day's journey being Bishop's Stortford (Herts), where we finish up a most enjoyable day's outing. We made our way through this goodly-sized town of some 5,000 inhabitants, and rested for the night at the George Hotel.

Here, on the following morning, we had reluctantly to part with two of our crew, as the City, they assured us, demanded their services. One of these had acted as our chef and provided us with hot accessories on board, which were appreciated and added increased zest to our appetites.

At the first lock to the River Stort the eye meets a formidably worded old notice board, which reads as follows:-

"The punishment for tampering with these works is penal servitude.

By Order."

and farther on our journey a similar intimation is observed, but instead of penal servitude, the punishment is " transportation."

This notice struck terror into the hearts of our crew, and altogether it had a salutary effect, and glad we were to get free from the clutches of the law, and this in Merriie England, too, in the 20th century.

Homeward bound was the order on this our fifth day. We had to study our remaining distances to get out at Limehouse Cut and to enable us to catch the tidal way, so we broke our journey at Ponder's End, where we got housed for the night. In doing the same river twice - that is coming back the reverse way - it always appears to be a new experience owing to the different aspect of the views. We had a pleasant run down, although the water in the Stort, on account of the mills working, was low. We only stopped once this day, and that to overhaul the engine and repair a spring on the inlet valve. Fortunately we had a spare one with us, and, after replacement, we sped merrily on our way.

As to the advantage of spare gear being carried on board, especially on such voyages through unknown country where one may not meet a living soul for miles, the benefit in this instance was at once apparent and important. Had we not had this, our progress would have been very seriously retarded. One feature to-day was our good fortune in having about three-quarters of the locks en route in our favour. We mention this as in many previous instances we have had, as it happens, very bad luck in having the locks against us.

As on the Lea, the G.E.R. runs alongside the whole of the Stort to Bishop's Stortford.

We commenced our journey next morning in lovely weather from Ponder's End - by no means an inviting place to the tourist - our destination being the Upper Thames. On such trips, we should say the stopping place is always more or less a difficulty, and glad we have been at times to get accommodation at all.

Close to Tottenham Lock there is a large swimming bath some 60ft. by 20ft. erected by the local authorities. This is one of the largest open air baths in the country, and many take advantage of it in the season. This shows the popularity of such an institution, and it is a pity that like places are not to be found more often in our country. The fact of being able to swim inspires confidence at once, especially in those who indulge in waterside pastimes.

The River Lea, it should be mentioned, is largely drawn on for water supply purposes, and at intervals along the route there is what is known as the River Lea Diversion, running parallel, which is used for any overflow and for storage purposes.

Just above the Old Ford Lock, about three miles from the Thames, the Hertford Union - also known as Duckett's Canal - is passed. It is about one and a quarter miles in length, and forms an important link and junction with the Regent's Canal, as by that route one can travel the through route from Hertford to the North of England.

We proceeded on our way to Bromley Lock, some 9½ miles down, which is the junction for Limehouse Cut. The latter, 4 miles long, is a short route to the Thames. This outlet brings one to the lower pool, some 4 miles nearer London Bridge than the alternative route by Bow Creek. All along this latter part of the way there are similar wharves and manufactories. And so we reach Old Father Thames, once again being locked out at Limehouse Lock about 4 p.m. The tide being now in flood and everything favourable-the weather perfect - we decided to continue our journey up stream.

We had a most enjoyable trip to Twickenham, our destination for the night, having done 30½ miles with only 10 locks. Our time from Limehouse Cut to Twickenham at 20 miles was about 2¼ hours, equal to nearly nine miles per hour - not a bad run for a small 6 h.p. Daimler motor boat.

On our seventh and last day we reached Chertsey - 14½ miles - our final destination, greatly pleased with this voyage of exploration.

Our only regret in finishing this tour was the fact that there were no further canals available to explore from the River Thames as a base, within a radius, say, of about 100 miles. The holiday had been a very successful one, and being favoured with exeptionally fine weather, this important factor increased our enjoyment.

Apart from the pleasure of such a cruise, the geographical and commercial interest is great. When once under way, all thoughts of business life disappear; besides, one gets the healthful benefit of being continuously in the open.

The Lea has ancient historical associations, as we learn that the Danes sailed up this river to Hertford in 894, and we also know that barges were navigated to Bishop's Stortford in 1769 - a " far cry" from the advent of the motor boat on these waters.

These rivers are well worth a visit, and the Lea as a good navigable river was quite an eye-opener to us. If there were many waterways with such natural advantages, there would be no occasion for holding Royal Commissions on canals.

In such inland travelling, the earlier in the season one starts the better, as the weed trouble which might be encountered in the higher and less frequented reaches is avoided. We, however, experienced no difficulty whatever in this respect, and possibly on this navigation one gets "fresher" water in the lower reaches than later on in the year.

The following is a table of the distances on the route travelled :-

Pictures related to this cruise

Hertford Old Town Mill

The " Balgonie" on the Stort

Entering the River Lea, Bow Creek Lock

Related Waterways

• River Lee
• River Stort