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XXX
FROM SHREWSBURY TO WORCESTER ON THE UPPER SEVERN.
AFTER our many and varied cruises we elected to spend a holiday on the upper reaches of the River Severn, i.e., that navigable portion from Shrewsbury (Salop) down stream to Worcester, a distance of 60 miles. We had already done the Lower Severn from Gloucester to Worcester, some 30 miles by motor boat, and by accomplishing the present trip from Shrewsbury the total distance covered on this river is 90 miles.
We, that is our crew of three men, entrained at Euston Station and reached our objective, Shrewsbury, early one summer evening (1915), where we made all arrangements about the boat that was to do service for the trip.
Shrewsbury is a particularly interesting place, full of historic and legendary associations, even to the Shrewsbury Cake Shop, referred to in the "Ingoldsby Legends." Our only regret in leaving there was that we had no longer time to inspect the charming old town. Our stay was at the Crown Hotel, a well appointed and comfortable house.
Proceeding to the river next morning we found our craft, a double sculling skiff, ready for us at the boathouse (Mr. Cooper's) not far from the town, and near to the well-known Shrewsbury School.
There was an ample supply of good water - more than we expected - with a fairly broad waterway; and from here we started on our voyage. There are directions as to the navigation on this river which are chiefly "keep to the left," and that we found invariably to be the course on our way down.
Some half a mile on our course we came to a weir where we had to effect a portage down a long sloping platform. Here we thought it would be more advantageous if rollers were laid down and so facilitate this rather laborious operation.
As we continued our cruise we got into long stretches of deep water, then suddenly the course changed, and we encountered shallows. There was a good deal of keel scraping, but we soon again found deeper water.
The river, as we found it, was somewhat lower than its normal state, and this made the shallows referred to all the more troublesome. We had at an early stage of our journey to dispense with our foot gear and to do some wading to enable us to push the boat along at places. There is not much danger in so doing, although caution is necessary.
The impression we formed of this river as we got along was a favourable one. There is little, however, of the surrounding country so far to attract attention as the banks on either side stand rather high, but that is compensated by the beautiful foliage on the banks.
Down our route we passed no towns or villages of any sort, all that is to be seen is an occasional cottage by the riverside, and, with the exception of a few fishermen plying their gentle art, we met very few people.
Some few miles down is the mouth of the River Tern - a tributary - and near there we landed for lunch. This we fortunately brought with us, as it would have been impossible to procure any food en route on our voyage.
We came across some fine bridges of considerable architectural pretensions - much more so than one usually finds on such rivers. Now we view ahead of us a well-known landmark in these parts, the Wreckin, a conspicuous and well-wooded hill 1,335 feet in height. It is observed for miles and miles round, and in sculling along one never seems to get away from it as it shows up unexpectedly at all points on this tortuous course.
Ironbridge was our destination. We landed there about 7 p.m., the distance of 21 miles being sculled by two of our crew. Not a bad day's work we thought, and glad we were when we arrived at our hostelry for the night - the Tontine Hotel. This is a sleepy old place in the Severn Valley, amidst beautifully wooded surroundings, but the scene is much marred by ugly ironworks in this locality.
At one time barges, carrying up to 60 tons burden, navigated up to this point, and we came across some inhabitants who remembered their trading. This navigation, of course, could only be carried on when the river was in flood.
There are several bridges approaching Ironbridge, the chief, a road one, in the town itself, being rather an imposing structure of considerable height with a large single span. The date thereon shows that it was built in 1779, and the town is well named, as it is said to be called after it.
It is interesting to note that one John Willkinson, a large iron founder, about 100 years ago, was reputed to have built the first iron boat ever made which was launched here.
I should also mention that at Dawley, a few miles from Ironbridge, the renowned Captain Webb - hero of the Channel swim - was born, and a memorial fountain has been erected there to his memory.
Resuming our journey next morning we continued our course down stream. Reports led us to understand we would have some trouble on the early part of our course, owing to the low state of the water for the next mile or two, and this we found to be the case. The first rapids we encountered we might have shot, but caution was the order of the day. We had the boat let down stream by the aid of a very long tow rope, which we had fortunately brought with us, and thus we let her drift down, the rope being held over a long wall of rock.
Beyond this a further shallow presented itself, where there was a strong current and the channel ran close into trees and bushes on the river bank. However, with the assistance of a local man and one of our crew remaining on board, we at length, after much difficulty, had the skiff let down as before to the extent of the rope's length. We took the remaining portion of the rapid, refastening the rope again to the boat, and so repeated the first operation.
Had we known what really was ahead of us we would have had our skiff transported by van the 1½ miles, and so we would have avoided all this trouble I have described.
These shallows delayed us well on for two hours, but, after all this trouble we proceeded satisfactorily. What we experienced on this journey was that we got long runs and good water, and these continued a mile or so, when we had to shoot some rapids which were easily managed, but care must be taken to keep the proper course. These, however, can readily be detected as you approach them by the appearance of the surface, the current forming what is like the letter V shape, and this indicates the right channel. We became quite experts at "shooting the shoot," and this little excitement we rather enjoyed than otherwise.
After our experience we should advise intending tourists before making such a trip to enquire before hand; if there were sufficient water in the river the cruise would be undertaken under better and easier conditions.
At length we reached Bridgnorth, some seven miles from our start. This is a quaint town, strikingly situated on a high rock, and here we landed to inspect the place.
There is a curious cliff railway or lift here with a double line that conveys passengers up the steep hillside to the town, and this we took advantage of. We found the town well worth visiting, and a magnificent view is obtained from the top of the promontory. The Town Hall, at the end of the main street, is built on arched columns, and is a conspicuous old building.
Continuing our water journey we encountered more shallows for a considerable distance, both above and below the fine old bridge at Bridgnorth, but by getting the assistance of a youthful pilot aboard we got through the channel without trouble. After this we again came into fine long reaches of deep water, and had the wind been in the same direction as it was on our start we would have been enabled to do some fine sailing, but luck was against us. On previous trips our mode of progression was varied by sailing or towing, but in this instance we had to scull all the way.
We now passed through a tract of delightful country, and saw some fine country seats en route; these pleasing vistas amply repaid us for undertaking this excursion.
At last we finished our day's work and reached Arley Ferry at 7 p.m., after nine hours of almost continuous sculling. There we discovered a well appointed little hostelry - the Valentia Hotel - situated in a little village amidst charming rural surroundings, and there we stayed for the night.
With regrets we left Arley next morning, as we thought this was just the spot where one would like to linger longer and meander round this interesting place. In perfect weather we proceeded on our voyage, and, with a greater volume of water to help us, more satisfactory progress was made.
We then came to the end of the rapids, but, with the better stream referred to, we managed these quite easily.
We next passed Bewdley - four miles down from Arley - and then we came into the county of Worcester. Again we passed through more attractive scenery, and the Blackstone Rock demanded special attention, the high cliff showing up grandly on the left bank.
After our meanderings we at last reached more civilized country, landing at Stourport, an important town, on the route. The river generally bears resemblance to the Thames, and all sorts and descriptions of boats, houseboats and motor boats are to be found here. This was a surprise after our 50 miles journey, as up to this point we had the river entirely to ourselves. Below Stourport Bridge the Staffordshire and Worcestershire Canal enters the Severn. This canal leads to the Trent and Mersey Canal, and some miles down stream the Worcester and Birmingham Canal also enters the Severn.
The river here assumes a greater width and a better one for boating could not be visited. What struck us particularly on approaching Holt Fleet - a popular rendezvous for the excursionist - was the number of large passenger launches plying for hire on the river. These were well patronized.
As we approached Worcester there was plenty of life on the river, and many campers under canvas were to be seen, and we also noticed many attractive bungalow residences on the river banks.
After passing through three rather large locks grouped not far from each other - the only ones on our course - we at length reached our destination, Worcester Bridge. A stalwart member of the crew and I sculled the whole distance, 60 miles in the three days, under the able guidance of our steersman, who safely piloted us over the many rapids. The trip was a delightful one, the weather ideal - an important factor - and altogether it was a pronounced success.
The skiff was railed back to Shrewsbury, and we hied back to London after a very pleasant holiday.
Pictures related to this cruise
Map of the River Severn Valley, from Shrewsbury to Worcester
On the Upper Severn. Arley Ferry ; Holt Fleet ; Shrewsbury
Related Waterways