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XXIV

FROM EDINBURGH TO THE CLYDE ON THE UNION CANAL.

FEW indeed are the tourists who find their way from Edinburgh to the Highlands by the route we travelled - via the Union, locally known as the Edinburgh and Glasgow, Canal, and the Forth and Clyde Canal - to Bowling on the Clyde. Our experience proved it be an interesting route.

We had just finished our cruise in England on the River Nene (Northants), the River Witham and the Fossdyke Canal (Lincs) to the Trent, and then we proceeded to Edinburgh by rail, where we had a pleasant sojourn.

This means of communication, although novel to us, was not a new one; in the early days, before the advent of railways, there was an "express" service for passengers in narrow boats or barges to the West of Scotland. This water route was an alternative to the other mode of travelling - by coach, when the journey occupied many hours.

Provided with a smart white painted gig -tight, staunch, and trim and equipped for the voyage, we found the craft ready for us at Port Hopetoun, which is situated on the west side of Edinburgh; and from there we made the start on our excursion to the Clyde.

The distance from the Edinburgh terminus of the Union Canal to the junction of the Forth and Clyde Canal at Camelon (Stirlingshire) is 32 miles. There are no locks in the whole of this 32 miles until the latter place is reached. Thus the boating man has the advantage of travelling on one of the longest uninterrupted stretches in the country.

The canal is controlled by the North British Railway Company, whose railway line runs parallel for a considerable part of the journey.

After getting clear of Edinburgh the route becomes interesting, and we pass some beautiful avenues of trees, and the fine range of the Pentland Hills shows up to rare advantage.

On the earlier part of the route, too, there are three aqueducts of considerable proportions: over the Water of Leith, the River Avon and the River Almond. The last-mentioned opens up from the towpath a commanding view, and, the river being then in heavy flood, the tumbling brackish water made a striking picture.

Several boating clubs - the St. Andrew's and the University Clubs being the chief - carry on their pastime on this waterway a few miles out from Edinburgh on the Slateford and Hermiston Reaches. These are old institutions, and although the boating is naturally restricted they are clubs of some importance.

Our start was late in the day, and we here experienced bad weather, which rather retarded our progress; however, although it was getting late, we resolved to make for Linlithgow, a distance of 21 miles from Edinburgh. This we managed after some hard sculling and towing along the towpath, and reached our destination about 9.30 p.m. After some difficulty we found the Star and Garter Inn, which our party filled.

Nearing the town we hoisted our sail to take advantage of an aft-breeze, and in the darkness our white canvas and boat looked somewhat weird. Here we encountered a barge being towed, and the horse, becoming rather curious and restive at seeing this apparently phantom ship, turned and bolted at sight. Eventually, after some delay, we safely managed to pass, and the canal boatmen, concerned at the prospect of possible further trouble ahead, shouted out in pronounced doric "Are there 'ony mair o' ye comin'!"

Our stay at Linlithgow we enjoyed. The town in itself is of a straggling character, but the chief attraction of the place is the old palace, which is of historic interest. It was all the more so to us, as we had come from Fotheringay Castle on the Nene (Northamptonshire) the previous week, and there was the strange coincidence that Linlithgow was the birthplace of Mary Queen of Scots, whereas it was at Fotheringay where she was beheaded. The castle is in wonderful preservation, and history records that it was last inhabited in the year 1746.

There are examples of old carvings on the walls, one representing the Rose of England, the Thistle of Scotland, the Prince of Wales Feathers, and the Fleur de Lys of France, all clustered together. A loch partly encircling the grounds greatly enhances the scene. The weather, which had been struggling to keep fair, at last gave way, and we had heavy rain storms, with strong head winds. However, we decided to proceed. This compelled us to take recourse to towing, and we engaged a man to assist us. We reached Falkirk, an important town on the route, after passing through a tunnel some 700 yards in length.

Shortly after Camelon is reached. There we took the boat out of the water and had it conveyed by a van over the eleven locks all grouped together down to the junction of the Forth and Clyde Canal.

The town of Camelon was in very ancient days said to be a seaport; and it was also a centre of the nail making industry, many hundreds of men being employed.

The scenery up to this point has maintained itself and is of quite a pleasing character, and altogether we must vote the Union Canal well worthy of a visit.

Distance travelled :-
Miles.Locks.
Edinburgh to Linlithgow210
Linlithgow to Camelon1111
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3211
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Picture related to this cruise

On the Edinburgh and Glasgow Canal

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